SVS Woofer Replacement Procedures
1. Lay the sub on its side.
2. Make DARN sure the power to the sub is off!
3. Peel off those foam disks and set them sticky side up somewhere
so you can reuse them if needed (you might have received new ones
with your driver).
4. Remove the 4" bolts from each leg with a large flat bladed
screwdriver (Phillips if you have a newer SVS) and set aside.
5. Tap or pull the base plate of the sub (the part that sits on
the floor normally) off. The dowel legs probably will come with
it. This is fine. Set the base plate, screws and dowel legs aside.
6. Put a medium Phillips head screwdriver bit in a powered screwdriver
(if you have one, it makes things go MUCH quicker) and remove
each of the driver screws. Be very careful not to slip and tear
a hole in the driver!
7. Slowly rotate the driver in its position and pull it out. Watch
the direction of the cable wiring the sub and turn the driver
so as to maximize the most cable length. Set the driver on its
edge and push on the spring loaded terminals to remove each cable
lead. Note the negative and positive alignment of the wire (that
is make sure you put the same cable to the red and black terminals
of the driver as it was configured). It is critical to keep the
polarity of your sub the same, especially if you have two!.
8. Reverse the process! As you put the driver in its endcap/baffle
make sure it is fully seated and the rubber gasket flat on the
endcap. It is also best to rotate the driver one set of screw
holes so that excess cable is taken up a bit. Make CERTAIN your
drive is lined up with existing screw holes in the endcap too.
9. Do NOT over tighten the driver screws! Get "about right"
with the power screwdriver but do the final tensioning by hand
and with NO power assistance. They should all be nicely snug,
just don't over do it.
10. Put the seam of the base plate edge molding towards the back
of the sub and be sure the spike feet fittings are on the bottom
of the sub, not facing the driver. Line up one bolt and leg into
each of the three holes of the woofer cap. Tighten the base plate
assembly with the flat bladed screwdriver so that it is very snub
(nearly impossible to strip the fittings in this case). Once tight,
replace the self-adhesive foam disks back over the screw heads.
11. Run some moderate level bass scenes to make sure the driver
is functioning properly and replace the sub in your system and
recalibrate. After a few days check your calibration to see if
the now "broken-in" changed any. Major changes are unlikely
however.
If at any time you encounter problems, e-mail us and we'll be
there to help!
SV Subwoofers Customer Service found at the SVS website located
HERE